By adamjJuly 17, in Knife Making.
Also what about discs from old hars because i know where there are more than plenty rusting away in the woods around here. Depends; plow points were made a lot of different ways: Do a spark test on them or heat and quench a section and check for hardness. Most of the thin disks will usually be a steel with enough carbon to make a decent knife. If you're finding all this old farm equipment, look for an old rake harrow, with the long curved tines, its excellent spring steel.
I made a skinner out of an old cultivator sweep and it took a pretty decent edge. Wound up using it as a utility knife so it gets a lot of use. I made a skinner out of a disk. It is harder than hell.
You half to be careful with the quench. The first one we made, we did a full dunk in oil and it shattered when we tried to cold work a twist. The second one we only quenched the edge of the blade then normalized. Boy it came out nice and holds one hell of an edge.
How did you temper after quenching them? Are you using the jargon correctly? We tempered after quenching by slowly It took some of the brittleness out of the blade. The edge Plowing the hell out of steel hard as hell but the middle of the blade and the back was brought back to a little more of a flexable temper.
Does that clear it up. When I used the term "normalize" I meant bring it back from that brittleness and temper it to a proper hardness. We edge quenched to get a really hard cutting edge and then after that had cooled, we tempered the entire blade. When we tempered the whole blade, it wasn't enough to loose all the hardness of the edge do to the type of metal we used.
The metal from those disks is great stuff. Not sure of the official steel content, but it is already hardened for use as a plow. We just played around with that hardness when we worked it. We had a very knowledgable well known bladesmith teaching us when we did this.
So, I am pretty sure we did it right. He was really please with the outcome of our second try. Here is the "close to final product" before final polishing and the handle. For your benefit, Mutt, some clarification on terms Often done during the forging process to relieve stress and refine grain. Oxides, the colors on the surface, are a good visual indicator of the temperature the surface has reached.
For the record, the effects of tempering have much more to do with the temperature the steel reaches than the chemistry of the steel itself. Various blends have a range of effective temps, but these are often measured in 10's of degrees, usually smaller than even a well calibrated Mark One Eyeball can estimate using a torch or toaster oven. Personally, I often start at aboutand finish a cycle of 3 tempers at degrees.
I also save the last temper Plowing the hell out of steel the next day, to catch any retained austenite that converted into fresh untempered martensite I am curious, does your well-known bladesmith tutor have a name?
For further reading on heat treatment of steel, I highly reccomend Kevin Cashen's article found here: Thanks for the clearification.
I was using the terms wrong. I can deffinitely see where that reply was confusing. Hope my later replies cleared it up. Oh, I was at a gathering and there were lots of people there working different kinds of crafts.
The well known bladesmith there was Blaine. He was very well known by all the others there, but it was the first time I ever met him. He was nice enough to teach me and my son what he could in a day. He had tons of his stuff there on display and has tought many of the guys that were at the gathering to forge and make knives. Hope that explains a bit.
I don't claim to be all that great.
Explosive plowing the hell out of steel pron videos
I am just a beginner. But, the knives we made from disks came out great. As far as the well known bladesmith I have no idea whether or not you know a Blaine in the Seattle area.
But, the people there said he was very well known in our area. If ya know him ya know him I'm just glad he was nice enough to help out me and my kid. Im not sure about austenite or converted fresh untempered martensite. But, all we had available that day was a small gas forge and a pan of oil for quenching.
We did what we could with what we had and the results came out very favorable. I just figured I would reply and let the guy know that you can make a decent blade from a plow disk. As far as all the terms go and what happens on a molecular level I wouldn't even begin to try to get into that kind of discussion. I used a term wrong and made a party foul I hope you didn't think I was trying to beat you up, man It's clear you're beginning, and the sooner you get good information, the sooner you start making quality work you'll be proud of.
I was just trying to help. I hope I didn't make you feel bad about it. I will simply suggest, and this is my own opinion, that getting one's head around heat treatment is the most important skill in bladesmithing.
It's the alchemy that makes it all worthwhile, turns soft iron into hard steel, Plowing the hell out of steel is ultimately the key to making good knives. I go back and read Kevin's article about once every 6 months, and I've been doing this for 10 years. I still get confused with some of the terms, but I always strive to make better work, and this is in my mind a very large part of it.
Good luck, and happy forging. That's cool, That is what I hate about posting. Sometimes, you don't get the intent behind a person's typed word's. I thought you were on the offensive.